Kindia and the waterfalls near Conakry: a day trip

Two directions, two moods

From Conakry, two major nature trips can be done in a day. To the north, Dubréka, about an hour and a half’s drive, has the Soumba cascades and Mount Kakoulima. To the east, Kindia, some 135 kilometres away, is home to some of the country’s most famous sites: the Bride’s Veil and the Kilissi falls. The first suits a relaxed day, the second a real expedition with a dawn start.

Either way, the key is leaving early. Getting out of town before 7 am avoids the traffic on the expressway and lets you enjoy the sites in the cool of the morning, before the weekend crowds arrive.

Dubréka: swimming and hiking

Kindia: the citrus city

Kindia, about three hours away on National Road 1, is known for its citrus orchards and indigo-dyed fabrics. On the way, Coyah, famous for its mineral water, is a good place for a skewer stop.

To leave at dawn without stress, stay near the city’s exits: Diatigui offers furnished apartments in Conakry, notably in Lambanyi and Kipé, handy for reaching the expressway early.

Two sample itineraries

A day in Kindia

1. Leave Conakry around 6.30 am, with a short break in Coyah.
2. Reach the Bride’s Veil mid-morning, before the heat builds.
3. A simple lunch, then a swim and a picnic at the Kilissi falls.
4. A quick visit to Pastoria or Kindia’s market, then head back around 3 pm to arrive before dark.

A day in Dubréka

1. Leave around 6.30 am and climb to the Smoking Dog while it is still cool.
2. Come down in the late morning and have lunch on site at the Soumba cascades.
3. Spend the afternoon swimming in the pools, then drive back to Conakry in the late afternoon.

Both days work well for families, as long as you keep the pace gentle and plan regular breaks. Children love the natural pools, and the drive itself, through villages and fruit stalls, is part of the experience.

When to go

This is the great paradox of Guinea’s waterfalls: they are most spectacular in the rainy season, from June to October, when the roads are also at their worst. The best compromise is the start of the dry season, in November and December: the flow is still generous, skies are clear and tracks are passable. In March and April, some falls, such as the Soumba, can be almost dry.

• With children: the Soumba and Kilissi, with their pools, are the best suited.
• For walkers: the Smoking Dog, early in the morning.
• For a full day: the Bride’s Veil, Kilissi and Pastoria combine well around Kindia.
• Respect the sites: some pools are considered sacred, so ask before swimming.

One to three hours from Conakry, these sites are a reminder that Guinea is a land of water and relief. A single day is enough to come back refreshed, your head full of the sound of falling water.